Day 2: Arcos to Barcelos

Our Day 2 destination was Barcelos. It is a convergence point for some of the coastal and central options. People who walk the coastal route to Vila do Conde then head inland sometimes break this day into two days. Otherwise, Day 2 for them is about 30km (almost 19mi). People who walk from the Porto cathedral can end up with a 27km (17mi) walk to Barcelos.

We chose to make it less painful by taking a taxi to Arcos and getting back on the Camino there. This was a good decision. I would do it again.

The day started out cool and cloudy but ended up sunny. We found what was to become very familiar on the central route - corn fields bordered by grapes.

Our Camino route included dirt paths, rocky paths and pavement and took us along interesting fields and farms.

At about the six mile mark of the day, we were needing a break and found ourselves in Pedra Furada.

There are several "well known" Camino supporters who are mentioned in books and blogs on the Camino Portugués. One of them is named "Antonio." He runs a café in Pedra Furada.

After enjoying Antonio's version of ham and cheese (and tomato for me) sandwiches,

we took his advice and chose a "scenic" alternative path out of Pedra Furada.

That turned out to be a really good decision, as it took us through a route with a lot of eucalyptus rather than the standard route along busy roads. It also involved some climbing, but we didn't mind. It was a good trade-off.

By the time we rejoined the main Camino, we were on the outskirts of Barcelos.

We crossed the Rio Cávado,

meandered through the old part of town, and found our Hotel Bagoeira.

Some people choose to take a rest day in Barcelos and do a day trip (one hour by bus) to Braga. That was tempting, since Matt and I had spent about two weeks there on a Habitat build. Unfortunately, our schedule required us to keep moving north.

Barcelos and Braga are both in the region that honors the fabled rooster that is a symbol of the area.

According to legend, a roasted rooster rose from the table to proclaim that a pilgrim had been falsely accused and should not be hanged. Though the intervention of St. James and the rooster, the pilgrim was spared. Those rooster icons are everywhere in this region. Matt and I saw them. Now Allie and I have seen them. Quaint.

Our hotel, Hotel Bagoeira, was nothing special - probably the largest hotel we stayed in while on the Camino. But it was nice, clean and quiet and had a good restaurant that served us dinner at good prices at a reasonable hour. I might look for an alternative next time, but this hotel wasn't bad.

We found a place near the hotel that served tapas. Allie had a yummy chocolate crêpe.

At dinner, we were given a nice melon starter. Our dinners were far too large (as usual in Portugal) but delicious - plenty of salad, meat, potatoes and rice. Allie ordered a half portion of roasted chicken. I ordered a half portion of picaña - my favorite cut of beef in Brasil. We're learning that half portions are more than enough!

Today:
Distance:    23.2km / 14.5mi
Walk time:  4:24
Stop time:   1:07
Avg. pace:  11:23/km / 18:12/mi
Ascent:       838 ft
Descent:     856 ft
Weather was cool with a high of about 21C (70F)

Progress:
Distance:    43.1km / 26.9mi
Walk time:  8:15
Avg. pace:  11:29/km / 18:24/mi
Ascent:       1394 ft
Descent:     1471 ft

Day 2 Credencial